Editorials

A New Era for Cyprus

By Caroline Gilby MW

The Cyprus wine industry has reached a turning point. On the one hand, EU membership has seen the loss of substantial subsidies for wine exports. This brought to an end the shipments of vast quantities of bulk wine that had been destined for Sherry-type fortified wines, ‘gluhwein’ and other mass markets in the EU.

It’s a difficult period for the sector, partly due to accession but fundamentally due to long periods of state intervention. The state has now taken the opportunity for major reforms at all levels, for restructuring, uprooting and incentivising better varieties. At the same time, a new Appellation of Origin scheme is already in place.

Variety is the spice of life

International varieties have been on the island for at least 50 years, and reds, especially Shiraz, are showing themselves to be well suited to Cyprus. University of California Davis-trained young oenologist Sophocles Vlassides has set new standards for red wine here with his Vlassides Reserve Shiraz 2003. He also consults for the impressive Vasa winery and Tsiakkas. Promising international reds elsewhere include Kyperounda, Domaine Nicolaides and Vasilikon.

However, the vast majority of production is still local varieties. International varieties are produced everywhere, growers are starting to pay attention to local varieties, but it will take time to have enough. Local black Mavro is undistinguished at best, but other reds like Lefkada and Maratheftiko have more potential. Lefkada has less universal approval as it can be very tannic. Franz van Dorsser, consultant at KEO’s Mallia estate, reckons it has high potential, and is a useful blending partner for grapes like Cabernet to retain local identity.

White production is dominated by local Xynisteri, generally dismissed as only fit for light, fresh and immediate drinking wines. It can be prone to low acidity too, but growing at altitude can remedy this and give wines an attractive , mineral purity and crispness. In 2005, possibly Europe’s highest winery was opened at Kyperounda, with vineyards going up to 1480m. Oenologist Minas Mina trained in Greece and then Glasgow, has made here an impressive Xynisteri called Petritis, using skin maceration and partial oak ageing. It was voted top dry wine in the 2006 Cyprus wine competition. Other good examples of Xynisteri include Vlassides and Vasilikon.

United they stand

Cyprus now has 52 registered wineries, many admittedly small and only selling locally, but others capable of putting Cyprus on the wine map. The problem is getting all these wineries to work together to present a new image for Cyprus, which may not be easy.

Cyprus is clearly an island with a lot going for it and the potential to make some truly exciting and unique wines. The Industry shake-up has been precipitated by EU membership, and producers are going to have to face up to difficult times in adjusting to the new market realities. There are niche markets to be found for high-quality and interesting wines, which Cypriot producers are increasingly demonstrating that they can make. As Franz van Dorsser says, ‘On Cyrpus, we can make some amazing wines- we have the soil, climate and tradition.’